Hi {{first_name}} ,

I get this question constantly: "I rescued my dog from the streets where she had to fight for food. Now she's aggressive to every dog we see on walks. How do I fix it?"

Here's what I'm about to tell you: the problem isn't your dog's past. The problem is you.

IN THIS ISSUE:

Let me be blunt: if your dog actually lived on the streets and had to fight other dogs for food, one of two things would be true:

Street dogs figure it out. They have to. The dominant ones get their food without fighting because the other dogs defer to them. The submissive ones learn how to get their food without getting killed.

Dogs don't survive on the streets by being constantly aggressive. That's not how pack dynamics work.

So when you tell me your dog was a street dog and that's why she's leash reactive, I'm going to tell you: that's not the reason.

Your dog is reactive on leash for one of two reasons:

Either way, the common denominator is you.

When you add yourself to the equation - you, the leash, the situation - suddenly this dog who "survived the streets" is losing her mind at every dog she sees, even from half a block away.

That tells me this isn't about her past. This is about the dynamic between you and her right now.

Here's what most people do: they put the dog on a slip lead (or worse, a regular collar), and when the dog starts to react, they yank back on the leash.

Sometimes they yell "No!" or "Leave it!"

Sometimes they just turn and run away, dragging the dog with them.

None of it works. Because by the time you're doing any of that, it's already too late.

Every reactive dog has a trigger distance. That's the point where they notice another dog and start to escalate.

Maybe it's 30 feet. Maybe it's 100 feet. You need to figure out what it is for your dog.

And then you need to stay outside that distance while you're training.

If your dog reacts at 30 feet, you need to work at 40 feet. Keep the dog below threshold. Keep the dog in a place where she can still think, still focus on you, still respond to commands.

You cannot train a dog that's already in full reaction mode. You can only manage it, and that's not training.

Before you ever work around other dogs, your dog needs to know basic commands in a neutral environment.

Sit. Down. Recall. Loose leash walking.

She needs to understand what you're asking for when there are no distractions. Because if she doesn't know what "sit" means in your backyard, she sure as heck isn't going to sit when there's another dog approaching her and making her feel threatened.

Get solid on the basics. Then add distance work with distractions. Then slowly decrease distance as the dog proves she can handle it.

This is where most people fail: they wait until the dog is already lunging, barking, and pulling before they do anything.

Too late!

You need to catch it when the dog first notices the other dog. Watch for:

That's your moment. That's when you redirect.

Turn around. Walk the other direction. Create distance. Reward the dog for disengaging.

Don't wait until she's in full meltdown mode and then try to correct it. By then, she's not thinking. She's reacting. And you've lost the training opportunity.

Here's the move that saves you:

Your dog notices another dog, this could be by scent, sight or sound…  You may still be unaware. You see the body language change. Immediately: about-turn. Walk the other way.

Don’t wait till it’s too late!

Don't make a big deal out of it. Don't yank the leash. Don't scold the dog. Just turn around, keep the leash loose, and walk away.

When you get some distance and the dog calms down, reward her. Give her a treat. Tell her she's good.

You're teaching her: when you see another dog and you stay calm, good things happen. When you escalate, we just leave.

Simple. Consistent. Effective.

It’s critical not to begin chaining bad behaviors.  Your treat is a reward for compliance and good behavior, not a bribe.  Do NOT make the mistake of showing your dog the treat in an effort to lure them away.  And be very mindful of the dog learning this pattern: 1. I lunge at a dog. 2. Mom or dad corrects me. 3. I get a treat.  This is a recipe for disaster.  

If there's one thing you take from this, it's this: a tight leash creates reactivity.

When the leash is tight, the dog is in fight-or-flight mode. She can't escape (the leash won't let her), so she fights. Or she postures. Or she barks and lunges.

Loose leash = calm dog. Tight leash = reactive dog.

I don't care what excuse you have for keeping the leash tight. It's making the problem worse.  A pop at the end of the leash is information and a clear direction.  A tight leash is a prison!

Your dog's past might have been rough. I'm not denying that. But using it as an excuse for current behavior doesn't help the dog.

What helps the dog is structure, clarity, and training.

Stop saying "she was abused" or "she had to fight for food" and start saying "I need to teach her how to handle this situation."

That's the shift that changes everything.

This is exactly the kind of problem I break down in my Shelter Dog Training Course. The only course filmed entirely in shelters with real shelter dogs facing real behavioral issues. Learn the skills that save lives.

Just brought home a new puppy? My 30-Day Puppy Training Program gives you the foundations to prevent these issues before they start.

- Robert

P.S. - Yes, I know some of you won't like hearing "it's not the dog's past, it's you." But if you want to fix the problem, you need to accept responsibility for it. That's where change starts.